A day out... in Dover

Around one hour from London, Dover is the perfect destination for WWII fanatics

White cliffs' path

Highlights: 

     Dover castle

     White Cliffs

The county of Kent, which possesses the honour of having the oldest recorded place name in Britain, is the major commercial gateway between London and the Continent. Only one hour and ten minutes by train from London and only twenty-two miles from continental Europe, Dover was known as ‘Hellfire Corner’ during the Second World War because it took the brunt of enemy shelling.

When approaching Britain, either by plane or boat, the first vision many people see are Dover’s infamous White Cliffs, a natural treasure that became a symbol of the hopes for peace during the World War II. Nowadays the cliffs are still one of the most representative icons of England, even if ironically it is better to get out of the country to admire them, as they are said to look better from a distance, the further the better.

It is very difficult to imagine that these peaceful paths along the White Cliffs tops were not so long ago easy targets for the Axis Powers during WWII. Someone said once that his aspiration in life was contemplating the wind. Even if at first sight the idea of observing an immaterial phenomenon seems not only utopian but also impossible, it turns out to be feasible. Sitting for a while on the fresh grass, on the brink of the white precipices, barefoot, that dreamy notion crystallizes: it is a truly magical place where that particular freedom that only the seaside breeze can bring is felt. 

This tranquillity contrasts with the imposing strength of the castle. Today converted into a mere tourist attraction, Dover castle was a key bombproof base for military command in the area during the Second World War. Its defensive role came to an end only when the Cold War was over. The castle has the longest recorded history of any major castle in Britain: its earliest rampart defences date back to the prehistoric Iron Age, Romans built a lighthouse in the first century AD and nine centuries later Anglo-Saxons built a fortified town. However, the bunk of the castle as we know it today dates from the twelfth century. The underground tunnels cut into the cliffs in Napoleonic times and used again during the Second World War house the only underground barracks ever built in Britain. Those barracks were capable of accommodating up to two thousand troops and some parts are currently open to the public now. In the tunnels’ tour visitors can experience how bleak life underground was: the weak bunk beds, the depressingly small kitchen and the ancient gramophone. Even with the facilities available, the handy infirmary was subjected to temporary blackouts, another of the reminders of that war. 

Castle wall

A remarkable building inside the historic fort is the Roman Pharos. Although not much more than 40 feet today, the lighthouse still remains the tallest Roman structure in England. Next to it is the Anglo-Saxon church of St. Mary in Castro, 1000 years old itself. There are magnificent views of the White Cliffs from the castle, and also from the town. 

Once the Roman walled city of Dubris, Dover is a working town whose economic force is its busy port. The town’s urban area is plain and the architecture is obviously functional but slightly neglected, what could be a consequence of the city’s lucrative trade at the harbour, as it seems that it is the harbour what the town planners have into account first. Being a front-line town during the WWII, its population was reduced then from 40,000 to 15,000 people within a few weeks. Currently the old time glory vibe of the town centre  and the busy port contrasts with the vibrant green of the trails and fields topping the White Cliffs.  

It is worth going back to the cliffs after the visit to the castle to contemplate the special reflection of the late evening sun on the White Cliffs. And to confirm that finally, as the infamous 1941 song says, there are blue birds over the White Cliffs of Dover.

  

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