A ride to the past, just for a tenner

Go back on time in Wales riding a vintage steam train

Steam trains are probably the closest a childhood fairy tale can get of turning into reality these days. Enjoying a train ride in the Brecon Beacons National Park in Wales in a coach behind a vintage steam locomotive is a fabulous fantasy that drives you back to that unique allure of the old times. However, to feel the 19th Century vibe of the narrow gauge railway you must be able to ignore the noisy hordes of tourists wearing jeans and raincoats queuing for the vintage train on the platform.

The train horns announce that the old locomotive is ready to depart. The clouds of snow white steam in both sides of the train thrill everyone. At Pant station nobody warns the passengers to mind the gap between the train and the platform edge. The wooden seats are surprisingly comfortable and everyone is talking about the delightful clattering of the train.

Despite of the rain (the Brecon Mountain Railway information leaflet reads, ironically proud, that the area has on average 250 days of rain each year, so no matter when you come, you are likely to suffer it) some passengers stand up out in the wagons’ open area to take pictures of the Taf Fechan Reservoir or to just admire the breath-taking scenery. Across the valley the three peaks of the Brecon Beacons can be seen. The middle one, named Pen-Y-Fan is, at 2906 feet, the highest point in south Wales. The horses and sheep on both sides of the railway do not even eyelid when the locomotive passes by. Actually, some of the running sheep are faster than the train.

The Brecon Mountain Railway is the nearest steam train from Cardiff, Wales’ capital city. Mainly re-built for tourists, the site chosen was on the old abandoned Brecon and Merthyr Railway, opened originally in 1859 and closed in 1964. The narrow gauge preserve railway goes from Pant station to the north side of the Taf Fechan Reservoir, covering a 1.975 mile route. There are five trains a day from April to October (at 11am, 12,15pm, 1,30pm, 2.45pm and 4pm) and each journey lasts sixty five minutes.

The first time the train reaches the man-made Reservoir is the most impressive moment of the journey.  Leaving the best views behind, it continues along the banks of the Taf Fechan Reservoir through a grove area in which the green colour of the bushes contrasts harmonically with the greyish blue water. Soon the train arrives to the end of the route, at the northern end of the Reservoir. The locomotive runs round to the opposite end of the train for the return journey.  The best views are in Pontsticill, where the train makes its only stop for twenty minutes on the way back. Passengers can take a later train to go back to Pant station. If the weather is peaceful, it is worth having a walk in the surrounding area while eating one of the Italian style ice creams that they sell at the lakeside snackbar, located in a temporary three converted former British Rail covered carriage trucks.  The beauty of the landscape is extraordinary and the man-made reservoir makes the nature scenery even more remarkable. Constructed in 1927, it can hold 3,400 million gallons of water. In times of drought some of the remains of the buildings flooded by the water, like a 15th century Chapel, appear above water level.

The beautiful views and the variety of green hues in the surrounding mountains can be more enjoyable if you distance yourself a few yards from the Pontsticill stop, where tourists are taking pictures of the locomotive and the Reservoir constantly.

Leaving the station by the gateway at the bottom of the ramp and continue walking along the road to the start of the dam. The best two options for a walk are either the Pontsticill village (aprox. two miles and a half) or the Reservoir (aprox. five miles and a half).

How to get there

The way by public transport from Cardiff to Pant, where the vintage train departs, is tedious, but the ride is well worth it. It takes one hour and twenty minutes and there are four buses every hour. You need to take the X4 service to Abergavenny at Cardiff bus station and change in Merth to the circular service 35. Return tickets from £7.


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